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  • Diamonds Glossary

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    A

     

    AGS

    American Gem Society – A professional jeweler’s society founded in 1934. AGS has a laboratory which grades diamonds and offers a diamond grading report. AGS has a cut grading system for round diamonds.

     

    AGS CUT GRADING SCALE

    0 Ideal, 1 Excellent, 2 Very Good, 3-4 Good, 5-7 Fair, 8-10 Poor

     

    AMERICAN GEM SOCIETY

    A professional jeweler’s society founded in 1934. AGS has a laboratory which grades diamonds and offers a diamond grading report. AGS has a cut grading system for round diamonds.

     

    APPRAISAL

    A written estimate of the approximate retail replacement value of the item described. They should be updated every few years ad can be used for insurance purposes.

     

    ARTISANAL MINING

    Small-scale non-mechanized mining that is done by individuals or small groups of miners typically working with simple hand tools

     

    B

     

    BEZEL FACET

    On a round brilliant diamond, these are eight large kite-shaped facets on the crown. Also called top main facet.

     

    BRILLIANCE

    Brilliance describes the reflections of white light coming from the diamond.

     

    BRILLIANT CUT DIAMOND

    Round diamond with 57 facets (58 if there is a culet). Round brilliant cut diamonds are more brilliant than any of the fancy-shaped stones.

    C

     

    CARAT

    The standard unit of measurement of the weight of a diamond. One carat equals 1/5 of a gram or 1/142 of an ounce. 1 carat=100 points.

     

     

    CAVITY

    A type of inclusion consisting of a large or deep opening in the diamond.

     

    CLARITY

    The degree to which a diamond is free from imperfections / inclusions. Clarity is graded on a scale from Flawless (FL) to Imperfect.

     

    CLARITY ENHANCEMENT

    Any process used to improve the apparent clarity of a diamond. This may include filling fractures and cavities with glass/resin.

     

    CLEAVAGE

    A break in a diamond which is parallel to one of its crystallographic planes. A cleavage may be caused by inherent internal strain or by a sharp blow. The break may extend to the surface of a diamond.

     

    CLOUD

    A group of tiny, white inclusions which give a cloudy appearance.

     

    COLOR

    A degree for which the diamond is not colorless. http://www.pricescope.com/wiki/diamonds/diamond-color/

     

    CONFLICT DIAMOND

    Diamonds that are possessed by factions, rebel groups, and other forces that use them to finance war against internationally recognized legitimate governments.

     

    CROWN

    The part of the diamond that is above the girdle. It consists of the table and the crown facets below it

     

    CROWN ANGLE

    The angle measured between the girdle plane and the bezel facets. Along with the table size, the crown angle helps determine the amount of dispersion displayed by the diamond.

     

    CROWN HEIGHT

    The part of the diamond that is above the girdle.

     

    CROWN HEIGHT PERCENTAGE

    The crown height expressed as a percentage of the average girdle diameter.

     

    CRYSTAL

    A type of inclusion. A crystal is a mineral deposit trapped inside the diamond.

     

     

    CULET

    The smallest (58th) facet at the bottom of a full-cut diamond. Some diamonds do not have a culet (none or pointed is how the culet of that diamond will be described).

     

    CUT

    The cut (make) of a diamond refers to the proportions given to the polished diamond by the diamond cutter. The cut is the most important of the 4Cs (cut, color, clarity, carat) in determining the diamond’s overall beauty.

     

    D

     

    DDI

    Diamond Development Initiative is a multi-stakeholder platform, which brings NGOs, governments, and the private sector together to address the issues of artisanal diamond miners. http://www.ddiglobal.org/

     

    DEPTH

    The distance in millimetres between the table and the culet.

     

    DEPTH PERCENTAGE

    The depth of the diamond divided by the average width.

     

    DISPERSION

    The fiery, rainbow colors emanating from a diamond as white light is broken-up into colors.

    E

     

    EGL

    European Gemological Laboratory – EGL has franchises in a number of cities around the world which grade diamonds and offer a diamond grading certificate.

     

    EYE-CLEAN

    In clarity-grading, eye-clean diamonds should have no inclusions that are visible through the table to the unaided eye.

     

    F

    FACET

    The polished planes on the surface of a diamond.

     

    FEATHER

    A fracture in a diamond that looks like a white feather.

     

     

    FIRE

    The rainbow colors seen in a diamond as a result of dispersion.

     

    FLUORESCENCE

    The property in many diamonds that makes them glow in an environment rich in ultraviolet light. Diamonds can fluoresce in a number of colors, blue is the most common, other colors usually are to be avoided. Faint to medium fluorescence is rarely detected under ordinary lighting conditions. Strong or very strong fluorescence may make a diamond appear ‘milky’ or ‘oily’, especially in sunlight. Blue fluorescence may enhance the color of diamonds rated ‘H’ in color or below (I,J, etc.) by hiding their yellow tint. Diamonds rated D-F with medium+ fluorescence may sell at a discount.

     

    FRACTURE

    A chip or break on a diamond that is not in the direction of a cleavage plane. Irregular in shape, they usually appear step-like or as a splinter.

     

    FRACTURE FILLING

    A diamond enhancement process whereby a cavity in a diamond is filled with an artificial substance.

    G

     

    GIA

    Gemological Institute of America

     

    GIA Triple Excellent

    A trade term for round diamonds that meet GIA‘s criteria for Excellent Cut, Excellent Polish, and Excellent Symmetry.

     

    GIA-GTL

    Gemological Institute of America Gem Trade Lab. The well-respected independent laboratory which grades diamonds and includes a diamond grading report with each diamond.

     

    GIRDLE

    The outer edge of a diamond which forms a band around the stone. The girdle can be faceted, polished or unpolished

     

    GIRDLE THICKNESS

    The measurement describing the percentage of the diamond’s average girdle diameter.

     

     

     

     

    GRADING REPORT

    Sometimes called a ‘certificate’, although labs do not ‘certify’ diamonds. The grading report, issued by an independent laboratory, should accurately describe the proportions, weight, color, clarity, symmetry, polish and possible fluorescence that the diamond displays and is being evaluated. Some labs such as GIA and AGS are felt by many experts to be more consistent and stringent in their grading than some other labs.

     

    I

     

    IGI

    International Gemological Institute. A laboratory which offers a grading report. IGI also produces written appraisals.

     

    INCLUSION

    A naturally-occurring imperfection in a diamond. Some examples are: feathers, crystals, needles, clouds and pinpoints.

    K

     

    KIMBERLEY PROCESS

    From http://www.kimberleyprocess.com/ “The Kimberley Process (KP) is a joint governments, industry and civil society initiative to stem the flow of conflict diamonds…The Kimberley Process Certification Scheme (KPCS) imposes extensive requirements on its members to enable them to certify shipments of rough diamonds as ‘conflict-free’. As of December 2009, the KP has 49 members, representing 75 countries, with the European Community and its Member States counting as an individual participant.”

    L

     

    LASER DRILL HOLE

    A tiny tube carved in a diamond by laser drilling, which is often done to treat diamonds.

     

    LASER DRILLING

    A diamond enhancement technique whereby a laser is used to drill to an inclusion which is then bleached to enhance the diamond’s appearance.

     

    LENGTH-TO-WIDTH RATIO

    A comparison of the length and width of the girdle outline on fancy-shaped diamonds. The ratio is found by dividing the length of the diamond by the width. The width is always stated as 1. Some L to W ratios are considered to be more appealing than others, but this is a matter of personal preference. Pear 1.50 – 1.75 : 1 Marquise 1.75 – 2.25 : 1 Heart 0.98 – 1.02 : 1 Oval 1.33 – 1.66 : 1 Emerald 1.50 – 1.75 : 1 Radiant/Princess 0.95 – 1.05 : 1

     

    LOUPE

    A small magnifying lens used to examine diamonds. 10x magnification is the standard.

     

    LOWER-GIRDLE FACET

    The facets on the pavilion of a round brilliant just below the girdle.

    M

     

    MINE CUT DIAMOND

    An early form of the brilliant diamond with a squarish-shaped girdle, high crown, small table, deep pavilion, and very large culet.

     

    MOHS SCALE

    The 10-point scale of mineral hardness. Diamond scores 10 on Mohs Scale. The diamond is the hardest of all known natural substances.

    N

     

    NATURAL

    These imperfections can be found on some polished diamonds when some of the rough is left on the diamond. This is often done so the cutter can maximize weight in a diamond.

    O

     

    OLD EUROPEAN CUT DIAMOND

    The earliest known form of brilliant cut diamond with a very small table, heavy crown and large depth.

    P

     

    PAVILION

    The portion of the diamond below the girdle

     

    PAVILION ANGLE

    The angle measured between the girdle and the pavilion main facet.

     

    PAVILION MAIN FACET

    The eight facets found on the pavilion of a round brilliant diamond. Their points touch the girdle.

     

    PHOSPHORESCENCE

    Light emitted from a gem after a being exposed to stimulating energy source and then removed. Notable examples include The Hope Diamond and The Wittelsbach-Graff Diamond, which phosphoresce intense orange-red after exposure to short wave ultraviolet light.

     

    PINPOINTS

    Very small inclusions in a diamond.

     

    POINTS

    1/100th of a carat. For example, a 1/4 carat diamond weighs 25 points.

     

    POLISH

    The way the cutter finishes the facets on a diamond. Labs grade finish from poor to excellent.

     

    PROSUMER

    A volunteer diamond and jewelry enthusiast who spend their time on the forum to share their knowledge and help others.

    S

     

    SCINTILLATION

    Sparkle. The tiny flashes of light that can be seen in a diamond when the observer changes his point of view.

     

    SHAPE

    There are eight common diamond shapes. They are round, marquise, pear, oval, heart, princess/radiant, emerald, and trillion. The most popular is round (the rest are called ‘fancy-shaped’). Some other shapes are created and sold by anufacturers.

     

    STAR FACET

    One of the eight triangular facets found on the upper crown section (next to the table) of a brilliant-cut diamond.

     

    SYMMETRY

    Labs grade symmetry from poor to excellent, based on the diamond’s relation of one facet to another (meet-point faceting) and it’s proportions.

     

    SYNTHETIC DIAMOND

    An artificial diamond grown in laboratory with essentially the same chemical composition and crystal structure as a natural diamond. Synthetics should not be confused with simulants, which have different optical and physical characteristics. For more information please visit: www.pricescope.com/journal/synthetic-diamonds

    T

     

    TABLE

    The largest facet on top of a diamond. This is where most of the light enters and exits a diamond.

     

    TABLE PERCENTAGE

    The width of the table divided by the average diameter.

     

    U

     

    UPPER-GIRDLE FACET

    On the lower crown portion of the diamond (Abutting the girdle), one of the 15 facets.

    W

     

    WHITE GOLD

    White gold is alloyed with Nickel or Palladium, Copper, and Zinc. It’s natural state is not white, and it is usuallya Rhodium plated.

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